Daria Beloyvan’s review of the Fall 2021 Jacquemus

​Although designer Simon Port Jacquemus began to intrigue long before the show, the Instagram teasers revealed a monochrome collection. There weren’t many surprises, except that the popular model of a mini-handbag got a fur trim. In general, the group has regular Jacquemus features in the spirit of the late 90s: sheath dresses, knitted long sleeves, high heels, wide trousers with a very low rise.

A leading stylist Daria Beloyvan gives us more details about the show and the new collection.

It seems that the Jacquemus brand claims to be the most responsible and sustainable. The show at the LAVENDER Field still cannot be forgotten, and now Simon Port Jacquemus has given fans a new floristic delight — he held a show for the spring-summer 2021 season among wheat ears in the French Vexin National Park, about an hour’s drive from Paris.

​The Fall 2021 show “smelled like fresh grass.” When you walked in, birds were chirping. “ I wanted to make it like a green and blue bubble-nature but unreal. Like you go in, and you find yourself somewhere else, “ says Simon Porte Jacquemus by celebrating his excitement of having his first fashion show in more than a year.

It is collectively desired by Jacquemus’s gazillion fans, as well as his supermodel and influencer friends. Creating hyper-color, hyper-proportion, and hyper-emotion was his goal. As the designer stated: “For me, a video cannot replace the show. What makes the show so compelling is the emotional connection people share through their visions.”

In addition to a collection now delivered or available for preorder on his e-commerce site, his show was a roll call, a gathering of all of the above. The round was called La Montagne, which raised expectations that it might bring a crowd to the French Alpes-Maritimes or the epic lavender-field Provençal runway show he organized in 2019.

As a theory, the Montagne of his title resonates with everyone who has been on that vertiginous, lonely hike through isolation from friends all this time (while ignoring the fact that, as mountaineers know, there is always another peak to conquer as you go). However, let’s not talk about mountains. The central theme wasn’t athleisure in practice. “I know that Patagonia makes hiking clothing that is much better than ours,” the designer joked, “We’re just a small brand making fashion, and we wanted to mix that up with French couture elements. So it was between that and the naive, happy Jacquemus from before.”

Video-wise, it was shot in profile (a noticeable trend after Marc Jacobs), featuring mini and maxi pieces in one outfit and randomly framing lots of skin. A cropped puffer and tailored jacket strung together with wide clips showed off abs, triangular inner knee slices, all with fuchsia, orange, and red accents. Porte Jacquemus called it “cartoonish and playful.” There is no need to add more: This already resonates in its way.

Thanks to the stylist Daria Beloyvan, we feel like we just returned from the show after reading her review.

Originally published at https://dariabeloyvan.weebly.com.